March 2018 saw Anthony Vaccarello profiled in Vogue, highlighting his tenure as the creative director of Yves Saint Laurent (YSL). His appointment, and subsequent collections, marked a significant moment in the storied history of the fashion house, a history steeped in iconic designs and revolutionary silhouettes. This article will delve into Vaccarello's role as YSL creative director in 2018, examining his spring 2018 collection, his overall vision for the brand, and placing it within the broader context of YSL's legacy, from its original designs to its current trajectory.
Anthony Vaccarello: A New Chapter for Yves Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello's appointment as creative director in 2016 marked a significant shift for Yves Saint Laurent. He succeeded Hedi Slimane, whose highly successful, yet controversial, tenure had redefined the brand with a sharp, rock-and-roll aesthetic. Vaccarello, while sharing a similar appreciation for a strong, confident silhouette, brought a different sensibility to the house. His background, shaped by his own eponymous label, showcased a mastery of tailoring and a focus on the female form, often emphasizing its power and sensuality through strategic cuts and bold, graphic lines.
The spring 2018 collection, his third runway show for the house, presented in September 2017, served as a crucial statement of his evolving vision. It was a collection that built upon his previous work, refining and expanding his signature aesthetic while subtly referencing the rich archive of Yves Saint Laurent's original designs. This wasn't a mere homage, however; it was a conversation, a dialogue between past and present, tradition and innovation.
Vaccarello's understanding of YSL’s heritage was evident. He didn't attempt to replicate the past directly; instead, he extracted key elements – the sharp shoulders, the tailored jackets, the emphasis on the female form – and reinterpreted them through a contemporary lens. The result was a collection that felt both undeniably YSL and strikingly modern, a feat that speaks to Vaccarello's skill and understanding of the brand’s DNA.
Yves Saint Laurent: A Legacy of Iconic Designs
To fully appreciate Vaccarello's contribution to YSL, it's essential to understand the legacy he inherited. Yves Saint Laurent, the founder, was a revolutionary figure in fashion, pushing boundaries and challenging conventions. His designs were not merely clothes; they were statements, reflecting societal shifts and empowering women through innovative silhouettes and bold choices.
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